Atmosphere:
Similar to the camaraderie of Cheers, bars all over Boston provide a fun, celebratory environment in which to gather with friends, watch a game, and drink lots of beer. The Fours on Canal Street (with another location in Quincy), conveniently located across from the TD Banknorth Garden, provides all that and more. With at least 20 TV's perched in various locations around the U-shaped bar and surrounding dining room, and enough sports memorabilia to wall-paper the entire room, The Fours also boasts delicious, hearty fare (perfect to soak up all that beer). Admittedly more of a fan of food than sports, I showed up at The Fours on a quiet Friday night, sank into a tall, comfortable booth, and prepared to focus on the meal ahead.
Food:
First up was a comforting cup of New England Clam Chowder ($3.95). The hearty soup was well seasoned, and had just the right ratio of chunky clams to potatoes. Its meaty bacon flavor and thick consistency made this stick-to-your-ribs starter a good indicator of what was to come. Following the chowder, came the requisite Buffalo Wings ($7.95), a "Boston Wingfest Champion" according to the menu. A generous platter of both wings and drumettes arrived coated with a tangy buffalo sauce. While not overwhelmingly spicy, these tender wings still benefited from a dunk in the accompanying bleu cheese dressing and a chaser of cold Stella (chosen from a lengthy beer list full of the usual suspects, although heavily weighted towards the lighter side).
Already feeling a tad full, what came next clinched the deal - a literal feast masquerading as two simple entree choices. The Four's Burger ($8.95) consisted of an 8-ounce juicy patty cooked to our specifications. The heaping toppings more than made up for the lack of seasoning in the meat itself: meltingly tender sauteed onions, green peppers, and mushrooms, all crowned by my biggest guilty pleasure - American cheese. All this was somehow wedged between a soft sesame bun with some lettuce and tomato, and served alongside a pile of crunchy, seasoned French fries, baked beans, and a pickle. Yet somehow, this impressive plate of food was outdone by the Ribs & Tips Combo ($17.95). A half-rack of barbequed baby back ribs shared the plate with three giant charbroiled teriyaki steak tips, onion rings, and a sauteed medley of asparagus, green beans, and red and green peppers. While the ribs were tender and lacquered in a sweet, sticky barbecue sauce (which could have used a tad more smoke), they were no match for the tips. Charred crisp on the outside, they were perfectly medium-rare and moist on the inside; the meat had spent just the right amount of time in the teriyaki marinade to be well-seasoned but not lose its entire meaty chew. The vegetables, albeit superfluous, were decent and would have been better had the green beans not been frozen. The onion rings, on the other hand, each had an appetizingly crisp crust that encompassed a soft, sweet band of onion.
Assessment:
Needless to say, I left completely satiated, doggy bag in hand. The service all evening had been efficient and attentive, and the surrounding tables that were dotted here and there with other diners made for a laid back, relaxing atmosphere. But come here on any big game night (especially if it's at home) and be prepared for something slightly more raucous, with a whole lot of boisterous, sports-loving fun.
By Erika Bruce
